Guatemala was not a destination that appeared on my list of countries to visit prior to 2016 but I am so happy to have discovered this incredible Central American country while in pursuit of my quest to find an affordable Spanish immersion programme. There’s a reason why this place is so popular with backpacking travellers – and it’s not just because it’s cheap. It’s a Spanish-speaking slice of paradise! There’s something for everyone to do in Guatemala, whether you’re into adventure, food, eco-travel, learning Spanish, sports or anything in-between.
If you’re planning a trip to Guatemala, Antigua is a great base from which to begin your exploration. I stayed with a host family in Antigua since I sought a full-immersion experience but there are tons of hotels, hostels and posadas for every budget.
1. Roast marshmallows in an active volcano
Hiking is not an activity I generally enjoy. But climbing an active volcano and roasting marshmallows over one of its vents just seemed like a bucket list-worthy activity, so I added it to mine and made plans to climb the Pacaya Volcano before I left Guatemala.
Needless to say, the steep 1 1/2 hour climb was challenging for me, but the pain in my calves was mostly forgotten by the time I got to the lava shop… inside the volcano! Yeah, you read that right. After Pacaya’s 2010 eruption destroyed the communities around it, a store featuring lava jewelry made by local artisans was started inside the volcano to help residents support their families as they recovered from the destruction caused by the volcano.
The real highlight of the hike though is roasting marshmallows – some people also brought along hot dogs – in one of the volcano’s still steaming vents!
I was very proud of myself for making it to the top all on my own but if you prefer not to hike up I don’t blame ya! You can still experience roasting marshmallows in the volcano. The villagers around Pacaya rent horses that take you to the top. However, you’re on your own when it’s time to go down into the volcano.
2. Hike Volcan Acatenango
Acatenango is another of Guatemala’s 37 volcanoes. It’s not active but it’s the best (and safest) location from which to see the current eruptions of Volcan Fuego. It involves a 6-hour hike up to the base camp area for overnighting, then an early morning climb to the summit to see the sunrise before hiking back down. With an altitude of 3976m, temperatures can drop to near freezing at night so packing layers is essential if you choose to complete this challenge.
I did not do this hike but I’m including it in the list because my friends who did, all returned singing the same tune – it was the hardest thing they’d ever done but it was an unforgettable experience. They also boasted that after Acatenango, Pacaya was a breeze. Ha! Good thing I didn’t try Acatenango.
These photos from Acatenango were taken by my super-adventurous friend, Anna, who’s currently backpacking her way through Latin America. Follow her adventures on From Heels to Flip Flops
3. Visit Semuc Champey
About one month before I visited Guatemala, I came across an article about Semuc Champey online and immediately added it to my shortlist of things to do in Guatemala. Located in the Guatemalan jungle, Semuc Champey is a limestone bridge made up of several stepped pools. To my delight, it looked just as stunning in real life as it does in the photos you see online. Absolutely beautiful!
Getting to Semuc Champey is no easy task but the swollen feet from the long bus ride from Antigua to the town of Lanquin is absolutely worth it. The entire experience is an adventure – from the 10-hour bus ride (usually advertised by travel agencies as 8 hours) along a combination of paved, dirt and gravel roads to the overnight stay in a rustic, eco-lodge (read my story about the spiders in my room here) with amazing views, to the crammed, hour-long ride standing and holding on for dear life in the back of a pickup truck, a trip to Semuc Champey is not one you will soon forget.
You have the choice to go straight to the pools or if you’re feeling more adventurous you can hike to the lookout known as El Mirador. It’s from this vantage point that all the best pictures of Semuc are taken. I’d say the steep, slippery (I visited in the rainy season) 40-minute climb is worth the effort if you want your own spectacular photo or if you’re looking for a challenge. If you don’t care for the aerial view, you can head straight for the crystal clear pools, just a few minutes walk from the main entrance. The pools are perfect for wading, swimming, relaxing or jumping (into the deep ones).
When I visited, my group saw a family of cute howler monkeys on our way down from El Mirador. The cool, refreshing waters of the pool were a welcome treat after the hike. Don’t be alarmed if you feel fish nipping at the dead skin on your legs and feet – free pedicure!
4. Explore the ruins at Tikal
Tikal, located deep inside the Guatemalan jungle, is like the most fun history lesson ever. An abandoned ancient Mayan civilisation, it’s still a mystery exactly why the Mayans deserted the city with its towering pyramids. Tikal is a treat for anybody interested in Mayan culture, ancient civilisations and architecture. Plan to spend an entire day climbing and exploring the ruins. If you’re a Star Wars fan, be sure to climb the 200+ steps to Temple IV – you’ll recognise the view from the Star Wars IV movie.
5. Visit Ciudad Vieja
This old city is a short chicken bus ride away from Antigua. Most of its buildings were buried by a landslide along Volcan Agua in the 1500s but there is this one building that just barely made it, with its top visible above the ground. Ciudad Vieja is a good place to visit if you love architecture.
6. Visit Lake Atitlan
Lake Atitlan is a picturesque lake surrounded by volcanoes and villages, about 4 hours drive away from Antigua (Again, the tour companies say its a 2 hour journey – not in my experience!). There are lots of little towns around the lake, each with their own flavour and offerings. The more popular ones with tourists are Panajachel, San Pedro and San Marcos. You can take a boat tour that visits each of the main towns or you can just take the boat taxis yourself from town to town. If you can, time your visit so that you can visit the Chichicastenango market, which is held on Thursdays and Sundays.
It’s not uncommon to see local men taking baths at the lake or the local women there with their children doing laundry on mornings.
7. Get lost in the city of Antigua
Pick up your camera and go for a walk through the cobblestone streets of Antigua. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Antigua was Guatemala’s capital before it was destroyed by an earthquake in the 1700s. Walking through the colourful city is like walking back in time to the 16th century with all the preserved Spanish colonial architecture. The ruins of some of the buildings that were destroyed remain preserved alongside those that survived or were restored. I just loved wandering the streets.
8. Travel on the Chicken Bus
You have to use the chicken bus at least once while you’re in Guatemala. Chicken bus is the name given to colourfully-painted, retired American school buses that are bought in the US and driven down to Central American countries like Guatemala for use as public transportation. The buses got their interesting moniker because of the number of locals that use the buses to transport everything from crops to – you guessed it – livestock like chickens.
9. Take a Spanish Class
Knowing how to say “Quiero una cerveza, por favor” will come in handy if you enjoy beer and you’re going to be in Latin America for some time. Antigua, Guatemala has some of the best-value spanish classes in all of Latin America. Consider taking a one-day crash course to make the most of your time in the Spanish-speaking region.
The photos below were taken at Antigueña Spanish Academy, where I attended 3 weeks of classes.
10. Mayan Women’s Cooperative
The Mayan Women’s Cooperative in San Antonio, just outside Antigua is a great place to learn about Mayan culture. The women from the cooperative show you how they weave thread into beautiful and functional clothing and household items. They also teach you to make tortillas, and pepian – a local stew, as well as how weddings are celebrated Mayan style.
Before you leave, you also have the opportunity to shop for all kinds of great handmade, souvenirs right there at the Cooperative. Remember to negotiate!
11. Visit the Antigua Market
The market’s a little smelly but it’s huge, and a great place to interact with the Guatemalan people and see all the fruits and vegetables grown in the area.
12. Visit Guatemala City
Yes, I know you’ve heard about how dangerous Guatemala City is. Even the local Antiguans would warn you about visiting Guatemala City. However, as with most cities, there are some dangerous parts that you shouldn’t venture into and some safer parts that you should stick to. I spent one day in Guatemala City, driving through Zones 10 – 16 and visiting a few shopping malls.
Other things to do:
Some of the things I didn’t get to do on my first trip but want to do on my as-yet-unplanned next trip to Guatemala are:
- Day trip to Monterrico Beach
- Visit Rio Dulce and Livingston
- Visit the Chichicastenango market in Lake Atitlan